Yerba
Mansa
Anemopsis californica
Yerba
Mansa - Fire and Water
Ink, 8"x10". Copyright
2005 by Lorena Babcock Moore.
DESCRIPTION:
Yerba Mansa (Anemopsis
californica) grows in alkaline wetlands in New Mexico, Arizona, and
California.
Its family, Saururaceae,
has only one other member - the Lizard's Tail
(Saururus cernuus),
of Eastern and Midwestern wetlands.
Its bluish-tinged leaves
resemble spinach but are thicker and heavier, and feel smooth and cool
to the touch.
They become spotted with
red and black in the fall, and often die back completely in winter.
The snow-white "flower"
is actually a conical one-inch cluster of tiny yellow stamens and pistils
hidden among white petal-like bracts (modified leaves).
Flowers bloom in spring
or midsummer, and the dry, prickly reddish-brown seedpods remainn for several
months.
Plants propagate freely
by runners, each with one or more nodes bearing new leaves and roots.
Roots are long and cordlike,
white and brittle when young, becoming corky and covered in brown bark
as they age.
The most distinctive feature
of this plant is its clean spicy fragrance that hangs in the air over growing
plants and is released when the leaves are crushed.
The smell is a bit like
a combination of wild ginger and eucalyptus, and several of the aromatic
constituents in these plants are present in Yerba Mansa.
HABITAT:
Yerba Mansa is a halophyte
- a plant that prefers salty, brackish, or alkaline environments.
It colonizes soils that are so full of salt, gypsum, and lime that few
other plants can survive. As the plants use soil alkalis and accumulate
layers of dead leaves, they alter the soil chemistry. The soil becomes
neutralized and enriched in organic matter, making it more hospitable for
seedlings of wetland shrubs. Yerba Mansa responds favorably to the
fires which are a natural part of its ecosystem. The thick roots
survive in the wet soil, and bare ground covered in alkaline wood ashes
provides an ideal environment for the plant to spread very quickly.
MEDICINAL USE:
DISCLAIMER: This
information is based on personal experience. It is not intended to
diagnose or treat any illness, and is not a substitute for professional
medical advice. Do your own research. Herbs are neither benign
nor ineffective. They are not used in the same way as prescription
drugs and are not a substitute for them.
Native Americans probably
introduced this plant to early Spanish settlers, who adopted it as a revered
remedio
with many medicinal and even magical uses.
Grown near the house, its
presence was a source of "good medicine" and protective magic.
Among modern herbalists
it is gaining importance for its usefulness and low potential for toxicity.
It has been compared to goldenseal, an herb with some of the same uses,
but Yerba Mansa is safer and its chemistry is different. Some of
its many aromatics are present in the entire plant, and others are found
only in the roots. The plant is a mild anti-inflammatory, astringent
(draws out excess fluid), mild diuretic, antiseptic, and anti-fungal.
EXTERNAL: The cold
leaf tea has a cooling anesthetic effect. A soothing wash for blisters,
insect bites, poison ivy, sunburn, and ringworm.
INTERNAL: Traditionally
used for colds and chronic lung problems, cystitis, stomachache, and many
other conditions. Commercially available as a root tincture, but
if you grow your own, you can use it in the traditional way as a tea made
from the fresh plant. Like many herbal teas, it works best when used
a couple of times a day over a few days, not every day. The taste
is spicy, numbing, and overwhelmingly medicinal....a refreshing
comfort for some people, but an acquired taste for others. Use 2-4
leaves per cup, or the entire plant, washed and chopped. A small
plant with young white roots will make about a quart of tea.
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| Yerba
Mansa is a characteristic plant of CIENEGAS, the tiny spring-fed alkaline
marshes of the Southwest.
Here it grows in a small salt pan among snowy crystals of gypsum, halite, and other alkali minerals. |
|
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| A cienega in winter. Water is hidden under dead rushes (center right). |
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| FIRE
is a natural and essential part of the cienega ecosystem. It keeps
the water surface open and accessible to birds and animals.
It burns mats of accumulated dead cattails, rushes, and grasses, releasing their stored nutrients to enrich the soil. Most of these plants have thick roots buried deep in the mud, and quickly send up new sprouts after a fire. |
||
Grow Your Own Yerba Mansa
Over much of its range, Yerba Mansa
is becoming rare as its wetland habitat is degraded or destroyed
by ranching, agricultural pumping,
and rampant urban development. This is true even of plants on Federal
wetlands
that receive varying degrees of protection.
Collecting your own plants in the wild is becoming harder to justify,
especially since yerba mansa is easy
to cultivate if you live within its range (USDA Zone 8 & 9).
Photo shows a two-year-old
patch that started from a single plant, growing in a buried plastic vat.
FIND A PLANT: Sources include nurseries that specialize in Southwest native plants, local native plant societies, and people who use or teach native plant medicine. If you collect from the wild, be sure that collecting is allowed in the area you have chosen, and take only a single plant. Wet the soil first, and dig deeply but gently to get most of the roots intact without damaging adjacent plants. Better yet, take a cutting. It will grow just as fast, causes minimal damage to the plant, and you won't have to dig! Look for a healthy runner with at least one node bearing a few young leaves and perhaps some tiny roots. Keep it in a bucket of water until you can plant it. If it stays in the bucket for a few days, you may see roots begin to sprout.
Several well-known native
medicinal plants have become endangered through over-collecting, and many
more are threatened by loss of habitat.
Like Yerba Mansa, all
are "national treasures" with ecological and cultural importance as well
as medicinal value.
Remember that parks,
conservation areas, and other protected sites earn their status for many
reasons, one of which is these plants!
Such places face many
challenges and are not established or maintained without much struggle
and opposition. Don't be part of the problem!
By growing rare native
medicinal plants, not harvesting them in the wild, you can help people
appreciate their value in nature
and their beauty and
usefulness in the garden.
PLANTING & WATERING:
Plant directly in the ground
in a naturally wet area or in a small depression that is easy to water.
Some wind protection and partial shade from a tree or wall will keep the
plants from drying out too fast. Planting in a large plastic container
(storage box, large flower pot, fountain vat etc.) will reduce water use,
constrain the size of the
patch, and make it easier to dig the roots. Bury the container to
keep the soil at a normal temperature and protect the plastic.
Fill the container with
ordinary desert soil mixed with a little composted wood mulch. No
other amendments are needed. Do not use potting soil, acidifiers
such as peat moss, or drainage aids such as pumice or vermiculite.
Leave 2-3 inches of space at the top of the container so you can flood
it, and keep the cutting or leaf bases submerged until new growth appears.
If you plant in full sun in midsummer, for the first few weeks you may
need to cover the container with shadecloth during the hottest hours to
prevent scorching. Your transplant will probably wilt or "shock",
and leaves may die off. Just keep it flooded with water and soon
you will see new leaves and thin red runners. By this time the soil
should be kept damp, but the plants do not need to be submerged.
Eventually the plants will grow to fill the container or wet area.
The container in the photo was full within six months. Once the entire
soil surface is shaded with leaves, water use will drop, since less is
lost to evaporation. A patch that has reached this stage can be allowed
to dry out completely before watering. Water the plants if the leaves
begin to wilt. An established container-grown patch may need watering
once a day in very hot dry weather, but only once a month or even less
in winter.
HARVESTING:
Leaves and cuttings can
be taken as soon as the plants are established and producing them.
Roots should be left to grow for at least a year (preferably longer) before
transplanting or harvesting. The plant pictured below is 18 months
old - the roots are still smooth and white, and the ends break easily.
They are easily cut up for tea, but do not dry well. Older plants
develop woody, cordlike roots with brown bark. These can be air-dried
or made into a root tincture.
Art, photos, and text
copyright 2005 by Lorena Babcock Moore. Do not use without permission
- this is a violation of copyright law.
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